
With a 1/2" socket and ratchet, remove the three bottom fasteners on the rear cover. Place a drain pan under the cover, and loosen the seven remaining fasteners. Starting from the bottom up, continue to loosen the fasteners and pry out on the bottom of the cover with a large flat-bladed screwdriver, to drain the oil.
Full Answer
How do I remove the axle shafts from the axle housing?
To remove the axle shafts from the axle housing, remove the C-washers that are retaining the axle shafts. In order to gain access, remove the differential pin-retention bolt, along with the differential pin.
What is an 8 8 axle shaft?
The axle shaft holds the wheel on the vehicle for a semi-fl oat axle arrangement such as the 8.8-inch. If you are upgrading shafts and the differential for any performance type of build, go with the stronger 31-tooth spline axles.
How do you remove the rear axle cover?
The next step is to position a drip pan under the center of the axle, and remove the rear cover. Remove the 10 cover bolts with a standard socket and ratchet and then gently pry off the cover. I like to leave a bolt or two toward the top of the cover still in place but loosened. This allows me to pry off the cover, but not have it pop right off.
What happens when an axle shaft fails?
When the axle shaft fails on a C-washer-style axle, such as the 8.8 axle, nothing is holding the wheel in place, except for the disc brake caliper brackets, if your vehicle has rear discs. These brackets were never designed to withstand axle failures and this high level of loading, and therefore they end up failing as well.
How do you disassemble a Ford 8 inch rear end?
0:0016:038" Ford Rearend Disassembly - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipThis time we click speech shop I can show you how to disassemble this forward eight inch rear. End.MoreThis time we click speech shop I can show you how to disassemble this forward eight inch rear. End.
How do you narrow a Ford 8.8 rear end?
The Explorer 8.8 is narrowed by cutting out 2.875 inches from the driver's side axle tube, welding it back together, and installing a separate passenger side axle in the now shortened driver's side axle tube.
Are all Ford 8.8 rear ends the same?
There are 24 different Fords that offered the 8.8 rear axle. The weakest points of the 8.8 are the 28-spline axles (1.18 inches in diameter). The 31-spline axles (1.29 inches in diameter) are more desirable but far less common.
How strong is a Ford 8.8 axle?
Adding a 31-spline axle to a Ford 8.8 rearend means you are increasing the strength of that axle by 30 percent (19.3 + 10.7 = 30 percent increase in strength)....How To Spot, Build, And Swap In the Ford 8.8 Mustang Rearend.AXLE-STRENGTH CHARTRearSplineStrengthFord 8.828- 19.3 % (weaker)GM 12-bolt30Baseline4 more rows•Jan 17, 2008
Is Ford 8.8 limited slip?
Ford 8.8" 10 Bolt, 28 spline, 1979-Current. Limited-Slip-to-Locked, Select-able Locking Differential. Limited-Slip-to-Locked, Select-able Locking Differential.
How do you cut a rear end house?
9:5736:31How to shorten a 9 inch Ford rearend - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipAnd just weld the ends on it now to cut a straight line on that simple little trick piece of paper.MoreAnd just weld the ends on it now to cut a straight line on that simple little trick piece of paper. I don't need the whole. Thing. So i'm just going to turn around and uh.
Are all Ford 8.8 ring and pinion the same?
There's no difference between any Ford 8.8 gears of a given ratio that I know of.. it's just a ring and pinion. Ford Racing FRPP ring and pinon are not the same quality as Ford Factory OEM.
Who makes Ford 8.8 rear end?
The Ford 8.8 is an automotive axle manufactured by Ford Motor Company at the Sterling Axle Plant in Sterling Heights, MI. It was first used in model year 1983 Ford trucks. The axle was developed to replace the Ford 9-inch axle. This axle is still in production today for a variety of Ford vehicles.
What is the best rear end for drag racing?
Ford 9"- The Ford 9" is definitely the most popular of the rear ends in drag racing. It offers good strength characteristics and the largest variety of gear choices. The thirdmember type center section allows a racer to have multiple gear ratios available and is much easier to change than a rear loading type rear end.
Is Ford 8.8 a good axle?
Although not serving up the same beef as the respected Ford 9-inch, the slightly smaller 8.8-inch has held its own as a good medium-duty wheeling axle, especially when used on lighter rigs. The axleshafts have been available in 28- and 31-spline counts.
How much power can 31-spline axles handle?
"This will give you a figure that represents the maximum amount of torque transmitted to both axles if you launched at your engine's torque peak and dead-hooked out of the hole. A 30-spline axle is rated at 6,200 lb-ft, a 31-spline at 7,000, a 33-spline at 8,200, a 35-spline at 9,600, and a 40-spline at 12,000.
How do I identify a Ford 8.8 axle?
A Ford identifying tag is attached to one of the rear cover bolts. The four-letter code on the top right of the tag will be a dead giveaway as to whether you have found an 8.8-inch axle. The first three digits of these codes are listed with the original applications mentioned on the chart.
How to disassemble a differential?
Differential disassembly: With the differential on the bench, use a 3/4" impact socket and wrench to remove the ten (10) fasteners that hold the ring gear to the differential case. Once all fasteners are removed, tap the ring gear off of the case with a soft hammer, alternating blows around the circumference. If you are planning to rebuild the traction-lok, remove the S-spring (carefully!) by driving it out (away from you) with a hammer and punch. Rotate the pinion gears (the small ones) around to the openings in the case, and remove (If you have set the axles up vertically in a wheel, it makes an excellent tool for holding one side gear and rotating the differential). The side gears and frictions/steels should all fall out; try and keep them in order, relative to installation side.
How to remove differential case bearings?
Also, you have to create a surface to pull against. I wound up using a large impact socket, whose O.D. was slightly smaller than the bearing I.D., and a hex head bolt that fit inside the socket; a surface that the puller would press against. I lubed the threads of the puller with oil, and used the impact to remove the bearings. Have somebody watch/hold the "legs" as you do; they tend to spread a bit...
How to determine pinion depth for FMS gearset?
The good: The best method for establishing proper pinion depth for an FMS gearset is to use the pinion depth gauge, part number T79P-4020-A. OTC makes this tool for Ford, and I understand it to be quite costly; somewhere in the neighborhood of $600 (complete; I've heard the essentials are about $250.)! Unfortunately, it is as it's described: a gauge. You cannot read an actual pinion depth number; you install the gauge and slide one shim at a time (better have a stack of them!) until you feel drag. That shim will set the pinion depth properly. If you have access to a machine shop, and are inclined to build your own, I have details of the depth gauge (AutoCAD drawings).
How to measure depth of FMS gear?
For FMS gears: Using a depth micrometer, insert the plunger through the hole at the bottom of the plate. Hold the mic firmly to the base, and touch the pinion face. Record the depth, rotate the pinion, and take another reading. Measure and record several locations on the pinion to get a good average (Dpavg). This is the target pinion depth for your new FMS pinion.
What is the master housing dimension of a Ford?
If not, the "master housing dimension" of 4.4199" should be used. This is the theoretical depth from the axle centerline to the back side of the pinion head. If you do not have a "good" reference set installed, you'll need to do little careful measuring and math (based on set-up procedure) to establish the proper target dimension, or use the OTC tooling.
How to drain oil from a sandbox?
Place a drain pan under the cover, and loosen the seven remaining fasteners. Starting from the bottom up, continue to loosen the fasteners and pry out on the bottom of the cover with a large flat-bladed screwdriver, to drain the oil. Once the majority of the oil is drained, remove the fasteners and cover.
Do you need to replace bearings while swapping?
Inspect all bearings and races for signs of scoring, fretting, galling, and/or spalling; replace as required. IMHO, as cheap as bearings are, it's good insurance to replace them (if you have the tooling to do it) while you're doing the swap.
